User manual BERNINA 217

[. . . ] Close attention is necessary when this sewing computer is used by or near children and infirm persons. This sewing computer is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the sewing computer by a person responsible for their safety. Children must be kept under supervision to ensure DANGER To reduce the risk of electrical shock: 1. The sewing computer should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug the sewing computer from Safety instructions 3­­­­­­­ 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9 . that they do not play with the sewing computer. [. . . ] Do not modify the plug in any way. Feet selection 9­­­­­­­ Standard snap-on soles Presser foot shaft for snap-on soles 1 Reverse pattern sole for practical and decorative stitches 2 Overlock sole Overlock seams, hems, oversewing edges, narrow satin stitches 5 Blind stitch sole Blind hems, edge stitching 3 Buttonhole sole for manual buttonholes 4 Zipper sole for sewing in zippers Note that all presser feet are available as stable feet as well. ­­­­­­­10 Optional accessories Sewing table To attach • raise the needle and presser foot • place the table over the free arm and press firmly so that it engages on the fixing cam To remove • raise the needle and presser foot • pull the table out of the fixing cam • pull in a horizontal position to the left Scale of sewing table • «0» corresponds to the centre needle position Seam guide for sewing table into the groove (underside of table) from the right or left • it can be freely adjust over the whole width of the table Note: Remove the presser foot or the presser foot shaft when attaching the seam guide! • insert Lens Set We recommend the use of the BERNINA Lens Set for more comfort when sewing. Foot Control Sewing speed • control the sewing speed by depressing the foot control • raise or lower the needle by tapping on the foot control with your heel Optional accessories 11­­­­­­­ Start-stop-unit B A With the Start-stop-unit (SSU) the start-stop-function can be controlled by hand. • press start-stop-button A = stitching starts • with the speed regulator B the sewing speed can be regulated by hand • to interrupt or stop sewing = press start-stop-button A again LED Sewing Light The LED sewing light illuminates the sewing area and has a long product life. Attention: Please note that a defective sewing light must ONLY be replaced by an authorized technician. The sewing computer must be taken to an authorized BERNINA dealer! Please refer to the safety instructions! Note: If the foot control is connected with the sewing computer, the Start-stop-unit is deactivated. ­­­­­­­12 Setting up the sewing computer Winding the bobbin Winding the bobbin power switch on • place empty bobbin on spindle • turn • following the direction of the arrow take thread through the rear guide and round the pre-tension stud • wind the thread two to three times around the empty bobbin and cut off any excess thread on the thread cutter • press the engaging lever against the bobbin • press the foot control • the motor will stop automatically when the bobbin is full • remove the bobbin Thread cutter • cut the thread on the thread cutter Note: When winding the bobbin on the vertical spool holder (p. 15), it may be necessary to adjust the speed. Setting up the sewing computer 13­­­­­­­ Bobbin case A To remove the bobbin case • raise the needle • turn power switch to «0» • open the bobbin cover • grasp the latch of the bobbin case • remove case To insert the bobbin case the bobbin case latch • the finger on the case should point upwards • insert so that it clicks into place • hold Bobbin thread cutter the bobbin case • take the thread over cutter A • thread is cut • close the bobbin cover • insert Please refer to the safety instruction! Note: The bobbin thread does not have to be brought up as the loose end is just the right length to start sewing. ­­­­­­­14 Setting up the sewing computer Inserting the bobbin Insert the bobbin Insert the bobbin so that the thread runs clockwise. Pull the thread counter clock­ wise into the slot. Pull the thread to the left under the spring until . . . . . . • the horizontal markings are helpful for sewing corners and buttonholes, etc. • the diagonal markings are useful for quilting • the vertical measurements correspond to the distance between the needle and the line • needle insertion point is position «0» (center needle position) • the measurements are marked to the right and left, measuring from the center needle position Note: To change the stitch plate see page 33 Feed-dog and fabric feed Button flush with housing = sewing position Feed-dog and stitch length With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step. The fabric moves under the foot quite slow­y, even at full sewing l speed. Buttonholes are sewn with a very short stitch length. Button depressed = feed-dog is lowered • for free-hand sewing or darning Setting up the sewing computer 19­­­­­­­ Thread tension A The basic setting • is indicated when the red line on the tension adjustment wheel is in line with the marking A • the tension does not need adjusting for normal sewing work • for special sewing work, the tension can be adjusted to suit the fabric The tension is factory set for the best results. Metrosene 100/2 (Arova Mettler, Switzerland) is used to set both the upper and lower thread tension. If other sewing or embroidery threads are used, the tension may need adjusting to suit the fabric and chosen stitch. • the Perfect stitch formation stitch formation is in the fabric For example: Tension approx. 2–4 Upper thread tension too tight • the lower thread is pulled more to the right side of the fabric • to reduce the upper thread tension turn tension adjustment wheel to 3–1 Upper thread tension too loose upper thread is pulled more to the wrong side of the fabric • to increase the upper thread tension turn tension adjustment wheel to 5–10 • the Metallic thread Monofilament ­­­­­­­20 Operating instructions Balance Your sewing computer has been tested and factory set using a double layer of cretonne fabric and Metrosene 100/2 threads (Arova Mettler, Switzerland). Different fabrics, threads and stabilizers can naturally affect the stitch balance so that they are sewn too close together or not close enough. This can be remedied with Balance to suit the fabric and produce perfect results. Honeycomb stitch on jersey, buttonholes, etc. Normal position Denser stitch formation (shorter stitch length) Finer stitch formation (longer stitch length) Note: If the balance has been adjusted, return it to the normal setting once sewing is completed. Operating instructions 21­­­­­­­ LCD Display 0 1 2 3 4 5 5. 5 1 5 4 3 2 3 5 6 4 1 7 2 0 The LCD display shows 1 stitch width, basic setting blinks constantly 2 stitch length, basic setting blinks constantly 3 needle position (9 positions) 4 needle stop up/down 5 stitch number 6 recommended foot for selected stitch 7 satin stitch; dense, short zig-zag stitch Altered Stitch Memory • any stitch length or width alterations will be saved automatically For example: • sew altered stitch, e. g. straight stitch • return to zig-zag, your alterations are still active Buttons Stitch selection • stitches 1–11: touch the number of your choice; stitch number and basic width and length settings appear on the LCD display Stitch width button = narrow the stitch width • right button = widen the stitch width • the basic settings of the chosen stitch blink constantly • left Needle position • left button = needle to the left • right button = needle to the right Stitch length • left button = shorten the stitch length • right button = increase the stitch length ­­­­­­­22 Operating instructions Functions Functions are . . . Reverse sewing quick reverse: • press button • Sewing computer sews reverse until button is released (max. stitch length 3 mm) Applications: • programming buttonholes • programming darning program • manual securing (seam begin and end) continous reverse: • press button quickly twice • the sewing computer sews the chosen stitch in reverse • press button once to cancel 1/2 motor speed the button and the sewing speed will be halved • press the button again to revert to full speed • press Needle stop • basic setting needle stop up • press button • arrow points down = sewing computer stops with needle down • press button again • arrow points up = sewing computer stops with needle up Note: Press button a bit longer = the needle will go automatically up or down. clr/del (clear/delete) button = reverts to basic settings • other selected functions are cleared Exceptions: • needle stop down • 1/2 motor speed • when buttonhole is selected, the first step blinks on the display • press Stitch overview 23­­­­­­­ Stitch overview 1 Straight stitch All non-stretch fabrics. All Stitch work 2 Zig-zag stitch Most fabric types; all simple zig-zag such as oversewing fine fabrics. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams 4 Triple straight and triple zig-zag stitch Reinforced seams in tough, heavy fabrics 5 Blind stitch Most types of fabric; blind hems, shell edging on soft jerseys and fine fabrics, decorative seams 6 Double overlock stitch All types of knit; Overlock = sew and neaten in one operation 7 Stretch overlock stitch Mediumweight knits, toweling and firm wovens. Overlock seams, flat joining seams 8 Super stretch stitch Open seam for all super-stretch fabrics 9 Honeycomb stitch Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics; visible seams and hems 10 Darning program Automatic darning for fine and medium weight fabrics 11 Buttonhole Fine to medium weight woven fabrics; blouses, shirts, trousers, bedlinens, etc. ­­­­­­­24 Selected practical stitches Straight stitch No. 2 A Fabric edges finished with zig-zag stitch B Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch length C Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch width Use reverse pattern sole No. [. . . ] Check whether: upper and lower threads are threaded correctly • the needle is inserted correctly • the needle size is correct – check the needle/thread table p. 31 • the sewing computer is clean – brush out any thread fluff • the hook race is clean • any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the bobbin case spring • the bobbin runs smoothly in the case or if remnants or lint need removing • the Lower thread breaks • The lower thread tension is too tight. • The needle is blunt or bent. Upper thread breaks • The upper thread tension is too tight. Take your sewing computer to your BERNINA dealer. Skipped stitches needles used. [. . . ]